Redeeming My Inner Tourist

We have done many "touristy" things this week, but not much hiking or bird watching. I feel conflicted when we get into "tourist" mode because I remember seeing ads and comedy skits in the 1960s that featured  “The Ugly American.” This caricature traveled through Europe expecting everyone to speak English. They were always disappointed that they did not do everything the American way. Being a tourist meant being rude, disrespectful, and arrogant, refusing to learn or appreciate other cultures. A tourist did not offer respect or a desire to learn. Over the years, this anti-tourism thought has morphed into something scary. It includes a dozen or more rules about how to travel properly. And, by nature, I do not react well to people or their lists who insist that there is only one way to do anything "properly." And so, this week, I have been working to redeem my inner tourist from the proclamations of the “travel police.”

 

We visited the Hopewell Cultural National Historical Park in Chillicothe, OH, on Sunday. Hopewell Culture is a collection of artifacts and locations that reflect the lives of many different indigenous people in North America between 2,500 and 1,000 years ago. This National Park protects sites from 2,000 years ago and is centered along the Scioto River in Central Ohio. Other Hopewell mound-building cultures have been identified throughout the South, East, and Midwest, the earliest being in Louisiana 2,500 years ago. Later in our trip, we will visit the Mississippian Mound Builder Site at Cahokia, which was built 1,500 years later. Unlike Cahokia, this was not the site of a large urban population. Few families lived in the area in small family lodges throughout the year. They were hunter-gatherers and tended small gardens. The mounds and walls were for religious observances. They also helped keep track of the solar calendar, became places for trade, and "family reunions" for people scattered throughout the Mississippi and Ohio River Valleys. Artifacts recovered at these three sites reveal that they had extensive trade with people throughout North America. As an Early to Middle Woodland People, they reflect a sophisticated, intelligent culture that thrived across a broad part of Eastern North America for thousands of years. 

We visited three of the sites in and around Chillicothe. The first is called the Mound City Group and holds the largest collection of mounds right next to the Scioto River. It is also the site of the Visitor Center for the park. Most of these mounds were destroyed by the US Army during WWI when they built Fort Sherman on top of the mounds. However, one archeologist was able to convince the War Department to allow him to excavate one mound. It yielded many informative artifacts. Other mounds are reconstructions of mounds that were leveled.

From the Welcome Committee

The Mounds

A Beautiful Woodland Trail

The Inner Wall for the Ceremonial Grounds

A Path to the Scioto River

The Scioto River, an Ancient Highway

The Elliptical Mound

A Mound that was destroyed by the US Army

The Mound that was excavated and reconstructed.

The Ceremonial Grounds

Next, we traveled to the Hopewell Mound Group. Very little is left at this site due to plowing during the last two centuries. The open space is also the site of Mordecai Hopewell’s farm, after whom the culture was named.

 

Our last stop for the day was at the Seip Earthworks. This site is located along a creek that runs into the Scioto and consists of the characteristic large circle and square that could fit precisely inside each other if superimposed. This feature is found at many sites in the exact dimensions, indicating that these people had a standard measuring system and advanced engineering skills. One of the mounds was recreated after being excavated, the second one was not. These sites demonstrate that our view of these people as primitives is completely unfounded. A tourist would see them as the 19^th-century farmers did, unworthy of understanding or respect. But they are worthy of understanding and respect, and we are enriched by doing so. They thrived on these lands for thousands of years. European Americans have been on them for around 200 years and have altered them in ways that would no longer support settlements like those built by the Hopewell Culture.

Post Hole Markers for a Family Lodge

The Central Mound

The Ceremonial Grounds

The Excavated and not Reconstructed Mound

The Enclosing Square Walls

On Monday, the last heat for the Summer crept into the area. After several days of walking and exploring, we were ready to relax and stayed at Koko. We made some of our preparations for the drive day on Tuesday. We traveled to Logan, Ohio, to see the world's largest washboard on the side of the Columbus Washboard Company. This is the last remaining US manufacturer of handmade washboards. We were unable to see the small museum inside. The city is quite proud of this fact and celebrates it yearly with an annual Washboard Festival. It is always good to see people showing off their handiwork with pride. Thanks, Logan, OH, and Hocking Hills, for a beautiful week.

 

Tuesday arrived as the heat continued to build. We loaded up for the drive to Cincinnati for our next week of wandering. The drive took us off the Appalachian Plateau and through the rolling farmland of South-Central Ohio. Huge fields of corn and soybeans stretched over the undulating hills. The roadsides were dotted with small towns and produce stands. It was a classic drive through Middle America. We stayed at Tucker’s Landing RV Park on the River across from Kentucky. Here are a few shots of the park.

The Ohio River

Looking Toward Kentucky

Ducks Enjoying an Afternoon on the River

BArge Traffic

The Hitching Post

One of the Cincinnati attractions we had to explore was what one of my Ohio friends called an “abomination,” Cincinnati Chili. I have heard about this chili for years and believed it was regular chili served over spaghetti. I thought it was much ado about nothing until we ate at a nearby chicken shack that also served Cincinnati Chili. They asked if I wanted my chili 3-way, 4-way, or all the way. After sorting through the options, I chose 4-way. Then they asked, "With beans or Onion?" Being a good Texan, I replied, "Onions of course!" I did not say what I was thinking, "Beans! Are you crazy? Beans do not belong in chili.” But I resisted.

 

We sat down, and a few minutes later, we were presented with Styrofoam bowls of the "abomination." I knew something was up when the server placed two packages of Oyster Crackers on the table and said we could have more! Seriously, oyster crackers! I gained a greater appreciation for the "A" word from my first bite. My Inner Texan would not remain silent any longer. I thought this was not chili, and the spaghetti was the least of the problems. It was made with hamburger meat boiled to a mush and seasoned with chili powder, cayenne, and cumin. No problem, yet! Then the allspice, cinnamon, and cloves came barreling through. My taste buds started doing somersaults. It took me a while to get over the shock and identify the flavors. I kept telling myself to not be a tourist and let the dish stand on its' own. Another one of my Ohio friends suggested that it helps to not think of it as chili. That piece of advice allowed me to get through the dish with a minimum of culinary calisthenics. I ate the meal and spent the next few hours digesting the experience! But, all the while, my inner tourist was shouting, “That wasn’t chili!”

 

Findlay Market

We traveled to the Over the Rhine Neighborhood in Cincinnati proper on Wednesday. We were drawn by the Findlay Market, founded in 1855, a market plaza that features local fares and wares. This area was originally settled by German Immigrants and was known for butcher shops and bakeries. Today, it is an eclectic, ethnically diverse community that celebrates the many cultures of the Cincinnati area. Many buildings are adorned with beautiful murals. The enclosed central market is surrounded by small outdoor shops offering various foods and crafts. We ate from a counter inside with various unique recipes, including a pickled beet and feta salad. Afterward, we walked around the outside and tried halva, a Greek treat made from sesame paste. Ours was flavored with Rosewater. It was okay, but we ended up having some baklava for dessert. This was a culinary and cultural taste of Cincinnati. Before leaving, we stopped to pay homage to the Cincinnati Red Stockings! (BTW, Marlene took all these shots except the one with the baseball player.)

The Central Market Building

"Red" the Cincinnati Reds Mascot

 

On Thursday I got to do another bucket list item that inspired this trip through the Midwest, The Cincinnati Zoo. I have heard about this Zoo for years and was excited to see it. I began the day purely in tourist mode. We walked the trails but I became exasperated with the poorly marked trails through the beautifully landscaped exhibits. In true tourist mode, I kept comparing it to other zoos. Here are a few shots from the first part of our 10,000+ steps through the Zoo.

Zoo Landscaping

Pink-Backed Pelicans

Ostrich Nest

Golden-Crowned Crane

A Cute Meercat

African Wild Dogs

Fritz, a long-time zoo Resident

A Not-So-Cute Meercat

One of the locals

Lazy Cheetah

More Zoo Landscaping

After posting on FB about our experience of Cincinnati Chili, we stopped for lunch. We decided to try what everyone said was the pinnacle Cincinnati Chili at Skyline. This is a local chain that serves up the chili to locals. We had lunch at Skyline Chili, located in the Zoo. And I must admit, it was much better this time. My taste buds were better prepared and were not shocked this time. The flavors seemed more mellow. The pasta and meat maintained some texture, and I enjoyed the meal. I walked away from the experience with this thought, which is a little tourist and a little wanderer, “I enjoyed that Cincinnati concoction for what it is, just don’t call it chili!” I found my inner tourist and made friends with him.

 

After lunch, we resumed our walk through the Zoo. That bowl of Cincinnati Chili got me out of pure tourist mode. I enjoyed the last part of our zoo safari with different eyes. The animals became the focus. The beautifully curated settings offered a nice accompaniment to a delightful afternoon. Thank you, Cincinnati Zoo! You have lived up to and exceeded my expectations. 

Twisty, Turny, Otter

Marlene makes a friend.

Mexican Wolf

Ring-billed Gull

Imperial Pigeon

Lady Ross's Turaco

Ruddy Shelduck

Enjoying a Peaceful Afternoon

Noisy Neighbors

"When will he shut up?"

A bathing Tortoise

We all have days like this!

Love the haircut!

Hollywood Casting Picture!

"I'm listening!"

Upon reflection...

There is intelligence behind this Bonobo's Eyes.

 

Sea Eagle

Oldest Zoo Building in the USA

One Buff Fellow

Looking Up

Gotta Strectch

A Wild Cat? Yep!

Pondering

Homage to Martha, the last Passenger Pigeon who died in this building.

Goliath Beetle

Chuckwalla

Small Komodo Dragon

Manatees

 

These last few pictures are from the wings of Wonder Theater at the Zoo.

The Lead Trainer Dancing for Joy!

The trainers loved their partners in flight!

A Volunteer Staring down a raptor in flight.

And the Birds love their walking partners.

A Small Mississippi Kite

And the Birds take flight!

Despite Thursday being a day of heavy touristing, we saw that Labor Day weekend would bring huge crowds to downtown Cincinnati and Newport, KY. We elected to take in Newport Aquarium at Newport on the Levee on Friday. This aquarium is wonderful. We have seen the Scripps Aquarium, the Monterey Bay Aquarium in California, and the Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport, OR. This Kentucky Aquarium held its own. It was crowded, but we were able to enjoy all the creatures on display and discover this gem along the Ohio River. After walking through the aquarium, we walked a small portion of the Riverfront. We had lunch at a Brewery overlooking the River. Thanks, Newport, KY.

 

Four-eyed Fish

Box Fish

Shark Tank

The Guitarfish, or Sharkray

Koi Angelfish

Moray Eel. Many were worried he was stuck! He wasn't!

Tree Toad

Beautiful Octopus

Toothy Grin

Cincinnati Skyline

The "Flimn Buiding" of WKRP Fame

The Purple People Bridge linking Cincinnati and Newport.

A Riverboat Plies the Ohio.

Not a bad view for lunch!

This week, I successfully redeemed my inner tourist. I have learned that it is all about balance. While maintaining respect for the people and places we visit, I need to stay curious about what I am experiencing. But along with all of that, I need to remember that wandering is all about having fun! Touristing is about traveling as an observer without engaging the places you visit. It sees people and places as pure entertainment with little respect for them or their culture. However, wandering allows each place to be what it is, much like the Cincinnati Abomination. Wanderers have no need to judge and compare. They come to simply enjoy and celebrate each moment along the road. However, if both perspectives are followed "religiously," the fun may leak out of the experience. With the former, we may ignore much that a place has to offer. With the latter, we may take every moment (and ourselves) too seriously and forget to laugh and enjoy the moment. Indeed, my favorite parts of the last week are those when I saw myself being a tourist and was able to tell myself to get over it and enjoy it!

 

My advice this week is very simple. Do not take your travel too seriously! Celebrate the road and all that you encounter along the way. Laugh, stay curious, show respect, and embrace every moment, even those where you fail to do these simple things. All in all, I invite each of you to travel well!

 

We will spend a few more days in Cincinnati before heading to Louisville for a week. Then, we will zigzag through Indiana and Illinois before heading South in earnest.

 

Thank you for following along!

 

Bob

 

Travel well, my friends!