Follow the Bouncing Ball

 

Fifteen years ago, when I began developing a meaningful and practical understanding of spirituality, I asked a simple question. “What is healthy spirituality?" I will not bore you with the details. These are available in the books and blogs I have published since then. But I did run across one idea that frequently appears in my writing: bounce. It is one of the premier gifts of a healthier spirit. When facing difficult circumstances, a healthy spirit will help us bounce and keep going. The opposite is falling flat like a deflated basketball. Well, this week, our bounce has been and is being tested big time!

 

The week began knowing that Koko's slide would need some TLC. One side was struggling to come in. I had talked with the mobile Tech in Amarillo, and he suggested I give the rails a good cleaning and then try it out. Buoyed by hope, we took a trip to Lake MacKenzie and took a few pictures.

 

Lake Mackenzie was created in the 1960’s to provide water for nearby communities. It sits behind an earthen dam across the Tule Creek and fills a large portion of Tule Canyon. Before construction began, an Archeological Survey by West Texas State University in Canyon discovered over 70 sites where people have lived for over 10.000 year. It was the site of a bison jump where a few of the animals were run over a cliff and slaughtered. Today it not only provides water but recreation opportunities for the area. Unfortunately, the recent drought has closed the lake to boating. 

The Main Part of the Lake

The Dam

The Hilltop, now Island

Beautifully layered rocks line the lake.

The Marina called The Crappie House

Likely prime fishing areas a few years ago.

The Boat Ramp from the water's edge.

Along the high and dry boat ramp.

 

This is the fossilized skeleton of a prehistoric American Horse called equus scotii. It was found in Tule Canyon before the construction of the Dam and is part of the deep, historical significance of this area. The nearly intact fossil is on display in the Park Headquarters/Convenience Store at Lake Mackenzie. This horse survived on these plains for rough two million years before going extinct around the time that early humans settled the area. It was unable to survive the change in climate that allowed humans to migrate into the area and disappeared from the open plains.

 

When we returned to Koko, I pulled out my ladder and cleaning rags and started cleaning the slide rails. There are three on each side of our slide, two on top and one at the bottom. This rail engages with a worm screw that is supposed to pull the slide straight in and out, driven by a single motor on each side that turns a shaft from top to bottom. After an hour of cleaning, we gave it a try. The slide refused to come in. I knew I would need to make another call on Monday morning, and I felt the air leaking out of my bounce.

 

On Monday morning, I called the tech and updated him. He then began letting more air out of my bounce. He would be glad to look at it, but it was not anything that he could fix. He recommended I take it to an RV Service Center. The closest RV Service Center was back in Canyon, so my next call was to Billy Max RV Service. After several calls, a few things became clear. Yes, they could repair it. Yes, as a full-timer, they would be glad to do the work as an emergency and waive the 5-6 week waiting list. Yes, it would only take a day or two to do the job. Then, the mostly flat basketball hit the floor. But it would take 7-10 days to get the part. They would need to convince my extended warranty company that it needed replacing. Then, it would take a day to do the repairs as long as there were no surprises! The uncertainty around getting back on the road was sucking the air out of my bounce! After hanging up, I saw a weather alert come across my phone. The Weather Service called for a major winter storm watch for Silverton in the next week while we were waiting for the part builders, insurance adjusters, repairmen, and the RV gods to pronounce their judgment. Yep, I felt like I was waiting for the custodian to clean up the basketball court because I knew where I was headed: the trash can in the corner.

 

The rest of the day was spent dealing with the uncertainty of not knowing when we would be able to resume our travels South. I canceled a reservation for the end of the week and made a new travel plan to get us to Central Texas when this was all over. I started planning to extend our stay in Silverton while we waited for the part to be made and shipped. This included reviewing what we would need to get through a winter storm in Koko. I knew that my greatest challenge would be to get some air back in the ball. At the end of the day, I felt like I had a little more bounce, but the air was still leaking out, and I needed to get myself into a better place. As always, Marlene had the right answer for our first step: a hike!

 

On Tuesday, we returned to Caprock Canyon Park and walked the Canyon Rim Spur Trail. It begins and ends in a prairie dog town and follows Holmes Creek Canyon before returning along Caprock Canyon. We walked this trail several years ago and enjoyed the scenery. It was a relaxing and easy hike that was just what our spirits needed. When we returned to Koko, I was ready to begin the journey through the week of uncertainty. I was not bouncing as well as I would like, but it was enough. I began to feel like we would find our way through the next week and started looking ahead again, beyond the next 7-10 days.

 

A Rainbow Scarab (Dung Beetle)

Holmes Creek Canyon

A Bit of Fall Color in the Canyon

The Prickly Pear was loaded with large tunas!

A Desert Denizen Prowls the Trail

These footprints appear raised!

Prairie Dog on Alert

 

As Wednesday dawned, we looked at our possibilities list for Silverton. We decided to eat lunch at the Bison Café and then head to Turkey, TX, and check out the Bob Wills Museum. Turkey is the hometown of the King of Texas Swing, and I actually heard him and the Texas Playboys at Camp Ben McCulloch when I was a kid. (I played with the other kids in the parking lot while our parents were dancing.) The lunch was excellent. The Bison Café is in Quitaque, TX, and is only open a few hours daily. But when we were there, they were not busy, and I had a great burger. Unfortunately, the trip to Turkey did not work out so well. We discovered that the museum is in the City Hall/Community Center and was closed. I had been looking forward to seeing this museum for months. This reminds me that expectations are the central piece of disappointment. We returned to Silverton after losing a little bounce, having used up some of it on the dusty streets of a small Panhandle Town.

 

After returning, I began to look at options if the "worst case" with Koko became our new reality. I worked through our travel plans and budgeting with different scenarios in mind. At the end of the day, I felt better, recognizing that we can deal with whatever comes our way in the next few weeks and months. This more than made up for the loss of bounce from our trip to Turkey!

 

We had quite a list of things to do to prepare for the freezing weather. We need to protect our water supply and make sure we have plenty of propane for heat. In addition, it was time to complete our switching over to winter clothes. Lastly, we needed to make a run to Tulia for groceries. Life in an RV is never simple, but we had a couple of days to prepare.

 

The propane was the most problematic. Our propane tank is attached to Koko, and we can't move Koko without bringing in the slide. We needed someone to bring the propane to us. I called the Park Owner, who said he would check with the local propane company. The initial response was a big "no way." But the owner did not take no for an answer. He was able to get the propane delivered. He went way beyond what other park owners would do for their residents. I learned that he had been in our situation before, and this fostered empathy with our situation. That empathy led him to walk the “extra mile” to help us. (Empathy is a magic potion for a world filled with despair and fear.)

 

I then changed out our usual water hose for a heated hose that we carry, just in case. The owner still wants the water disconnected to protect the pipes, so I also filled our onboard water tank and tested the water pump. It worked.

 

We turned to our wardrobe for winter and pulled out all our winter clothes from under our bed. We stored away most of our shorts and lighter-weight clothes. We do this every year, marking a mental shift in my thinking. Winter has arrived!

 

Lastly, we drove to Tulia and bought a few groceries for the week. We had to be careful and only buy a few if we had to leave Koko unplugged for a few days. This busyness not only helped us prepare but also allowed me to work through and recover more bounce. At the end of these two days, I felt more prepared to deal with whatever came next.

 

On Saturday, the wind began to turn to the North, and the temperature started to drop. Despite having recovered much of my bounce, I was still not happy with the situation. Some folks are adventurers and love situations filled with uncertainty. I am not an adventurer. Uncertainty creates more grief than joyful anticipation in my soul. After 35 years of conducting funerals as a pastor and as a Hospice Chaplain, I have come to appreciate that grief is a constant companion throughout our lives. Change, particularly changes that create a sense of loss, evokes grief. Uncertainty is a major trigger for my own grieving.

 

We started this as a search for 70 degrees. And watching The Weather Channel makes me sad. Hearing the wind blow causes my spirit to ebb. Watching the clouds roll in, knowing that they will be with us for a few days, at least, erodes my “want to.” Watching the temps fall and knowing they 70 degrees will leave us for the time being deepened that sadness. And then, believing that all of this is entirely out of my hands made room in my spirit for that sadness to grow into grieving for what "might have been." How do any of us handle grief? It takes bounce. And bounce relies on refilling our lives with the air called hope! It does not take away the grief. We are still sad. Our “want to” may still be very weak. We may still yearn for what “might have been,” but hope allows us to keep going and face the day ahead.

 

I want to tie this blog up with a big red bow and tell you everything is fine, and all our problems have been addressed. But this is the real world, and we all must wait for the "happy ending.” As I write these words on Sunday Morning, the temps have fallen, and we are starting our journey through this winter storm. So, for now, the end of the story remains unwritten because it has yet to be lived. So, I invite you to bear with me as we move through the week or two to see how all this works out. Follow me on FB if you want more timely updates. Otherwise, next week's blog will take us all a little further down the road.

 

I am glad you are along for the ride. Hang in there with us as we wander through these next seven days, buoyed by hope of warmer weather and a healthy and happy Koko.

 

Bob

 

 

 

 
 

Leaning Into the Blowing Wind

We enjoyed an entire week of Panhandle Texas Kitsch. Tex Randall greeted us as we drove into Canyon, Texas, last week; his spirit was everywhere. After nearly 8 months of being absent from Texas, this much Texana was manageable. It topped off our low “Texas tanks.” We spent the next five days in Canyon before we packed up and moved an hour or so down the road to Silverton. In many ways, Canyon reminds me of growing up in San Marcos. It is a small Texas Town with a university. The Courthouse Square sits off-center from most of the highways. And there is a lot of pride in their local football teams, displayed on every window around the square. Yep, I felt right at home. 

 

After fighting a cold for a week, we finally felt better enough to venture out to Palo Duro Canyon and do a drive-through on Monday. We were here in 2007, but much has changed. Touristy places have popped up all over. There is a yuppie Mercantile just down the road from the entrance. The old RV park outside the gates was closed and now had a fake town front and Zipline Towers. However, the park is still the same: big, beautiful, and accessible.

 

The uncluttered, wide-open vistas surround us as we navigate the switchbacks that take us into the Canyon. There is a beautiful new building for group events at the base of the cliff. The rest of the drive through the park reminded us of a visit in 2007. A quick stop at the Trading Post for an Ice Cream (Blue Bell, of course) spoke of Lone Stars and starry nights, as "The stars at night are big and bright…" echoed in my ear. Those from Texas are likely finishing the chorus in your head right now, so you know what I mean. We finished the drive with a good idea of how we hoped to spend the rest of the week.

 

On Tuesday, we did a couple of short hikes in the canyon after having brunch in Canyon. The walk started behind the Event Center and is called the Pioneer Nature Trail. The grasslands included what we called Cedar Trees when we were growing up. It is really a Western Red Juniper and has a deep fragrance that fills the air with memories of childhood exploring "the Hill" above my old house in San Marcos with my friend Richard. Mesquite and dried sunflowers fill in much of the space between the trees. We could hear birds moving around us, and I fell into a rhythm with the comforting crunch of gravel under our feet. The gravel became dirt as we neared the river. The silenced footsteps allowed us to walk up on four large turkeys picking their way through the grass under the trees at the dry riverbed. They did not seem too concerned about us as long as we kept a respectful distance. These were large birds, and when they stepped out of the shade, the sun revealed that they were wearing coats of many colors. We stood and watched them for quite some time. My camera was quietly clicking away most of the time. But, we had more to see and so we slipped past the Turkeys, and they remained as unconcerned as ever.

We walked the Paseo del Rio next. We did part of this short trail in the Spring of 2007, and I remember it being lined with wildflowers. But this year, it was lined with dried seed heads that were just as beautiful. The creek near the picnic area where we joined the trail was dry. Apparently, the water was just below the surface because the grass was green, and the trees did not seem stressed. We enjoyed the shade while it lasted, but soon found ourselves beside a fast-flowing stream that cut its way through the ravines. The picture is of one spot where we saw a couple of families who had stopped to play in the water. The canyon cliffs above have looked down on this, their mother stream, for thousands of years. In flood or drought, this is the very core of Palo Duro. It is why Native People lived here for thousands of years. The stream also brought Charles Goodnight and his cattle. Tourists now flock to the park to be embraced in the arms of this natural wonderland.

 

After the trail, we stopped by the Trading Post for a planned “lupper" of burgers and onion rings that we spied people enjoying the day before. We also took in the birding blind we had discovered the day before. The burger was terrific, and the birding was great fun. (I have included a few shots of these, an other, "birds with attitude" in the following pictures!) We returned to Koko after a good day in the arms of the Palo Duro.

 

"Hey, You with the camera! What are you doing?"

"I'm so pretty..."

A young White-crowned Sparrow

A mature White-crowned Sparrow getting a drink.

"Back off, buster!"

A young Cardinal

"Let us pray..."

A Spotted Towhee does not want to be disturbed while he drinks.

A House Finch

A Young Cardinal posing for the camera.

Male Cardinal checking out the crowd.

Just hoppin' around

"I'm okay! No really, I'm OK!"

"What's it to ya'!"

"Sunflower Seeds, AGAIN?"

"This is MY rock!"

 Black-capped Titmouse

Birds do not have middle fingers!

Let's eat!

"Shall we gather at the river..."

There's a bug in there somewhere. I can hear it!"

Golden-fronted Woodpecker

 

The next day, we headed back into Canyon to see the Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum on the campus of West Texas A&M University. This large museum tells the story of this part of Texas from the days of the dinosaurs to the present. It is well done and laid out in a vast, sprawling building. As a public museum that relies on private donations, there is inordinate space purchased by oil company executives to celebrate their industry. The Cattlemen have not been outdone by their fellow capitalists. With a few exceptions, none of their displays honestly assess their industry's impact on the area. They do not offer much of the story about cleansing the Llano Escatado of the undesirable Indians and buffalo. I was not disappointed since I did not expect much. Instead, I was saddened to read but happy to see them tell how a pipeline wiped out one of the oldest Indian archeological sites in Texas. (The picture is of a diorama of the site.) If you spend the time and read every storyboard, you will find the story. But mostly, the museum is for casual gazers and children who will not look for the details. All in all, it was a perfect afternoon.

 

We drove out to the Buffalo Lake National Wildlife Refuge on Tierra Blanca Creek for our last day in Canyon. This was the site of a large dam built in the 1930s. Unfortunately, the engineering for the dam failed, and it was drained in the 1940s. It remained nearly empty for many decades. Last Spring, the heavy rains filled the lakebed. The picture above shows the lake as the waters have receded over the Summer. Unfortunately, the waters are toxic, polluted by runoff from the huge cattle feedlots surrounding it and the heavy use of fertilizers on the fields. The water has that polluted green of phosphates and a large algal mat that uses up the oxygen. The birds still use it as part of the Central Flyway for migration, but the resident birds look elsewhere along the creek.

What have the authorities done about the pollution? They have allowed the local farmers to cut hay off the Refuge, removing the nitrates and phosphates in the hay. Have they stopped the influx of pollutants? The storyboards did not give any clue to that question. There were a few birds, but the trails and drive did not get us close enough, except for a tiny blind at the end of the lake. We were excited to read that there was a Prairie Dog Town with burrowing owls not far away. After a short drive we walked a quarter mile up a ridge only to see a few prairie dogs on the next ridge. Alas, there were no owls to be seen. The storyboards along the walk were informative, but I was disappointed that we did not get to enjoy the Prairie Dog Town.

Overall, it was a good day, though not quite what we had hoped for. But then again, that is part of wandering. The best way to manage is to keep our expectations in check! 

 

Here are a few shots of the Refuge you might enjoy.

 

The critter of the day at the refuge.

A lonely place

Blowing in the wind.

"You shall not pass!"

The hills are alive...

Mule deer grazing along the lake bed.

I'm ltae, I'm late! I'm very. very late!"

The Native people used the canyon walls of the refuge were used to kill and slaughter bison.

Another one of God's Creatures.

Prairie Dog Town

As Friday arrived, it was time to leave Canyon and make the short drive to  Silverton, TX. We had a couple of errands to run before we hit the road. We needed to get Koko's State Inspection and fill up with gas along the way. We had hoped to get into Silverton before lunch. However, the RV gods had other ideas.

 

As we were packing up Koko to leave, we had a bit of a hitch in our get-along. Koko has a full-length slide-out on the driver's side, making the living space inside very comfortable. Unfortunately, the slide-out didn't slide in. It would get to a certain point and stop. The book said to re-sync the two motors that drive the slide. That did not seem to work. I called several repair people, including the one who helped us out before. He did not get back to me; the other two were out of town. Koko cannot be moved as long as the slide is out. The problem is that re-syncing requires that the slide be brought all the way in before you can re-sync. I really had no other choice, so I kept trying. After almost two hours, the slide finally popped into place. At last, we could get Koko to the Tire shop for his inspection before the Thai restaurant next door filled up the parking lot. Fortunately, the inspection went as hoped, and we were on the road to Tulia, where we planned to stop for gas.

 

After the gas stop, it was after 12:00, and we needed to eat. In Koko, our eating places are limited to restaurants with large parking lots. In Tulia, TX, this meant the Pizza Hut. So, we had a leisurely lunch of Italian fast food and were on our way. (By the way, if you like Spaghetti Marinara, do not get the pasta with meat sauce at Pizza Hut. You have been warned!) We arrived at our campsite in Silverton and got set up. I completed a by-the-book re-sync of the slide, which went out as expected. I finally heard from my slide guy, who suggested I clean out the tracks and try it again. He would be available next week if needed. This will go on my list for the weekend, and we'll see how it goes. 

 

After arriving in Silverton, we made our reconnaissance trip to Caprock Canyons State Park. This part of the Panhandle is even more flat than many other areas. This makes the descent into the Canyon that much more dramatic. I like Palo Duro, but Caprock, for me, is much more scenic. The red rock and deeply creviced cliffs add dark red shadows to the backdrop. The roads and trails wind through rugged landscapes. The presence of Bison and Prairie Dogs adds some character to the place. During our drive-through, both of these creatures welcomed us to the park.

 

Caprock Canyon is home to the Texas State Bison Herd. Bison were nearly wiped out in the 1870s to starve the Indians into becoming dependent on the US Government on reservations and to open the range for cattle. They slaughtered thousands of the creatures and left their carcasses to rot on the open plains. More than 60 million bison had been reduced to less than 1,000. In 1878, Charles Goodnight captured orphaned calves from the open range and raised them on the JA Ranch in Palo Duro Canyon. These calves were the beginning of the Texas State Herd. They have thrived in Caprock Canyons ever since.

 

Along with other herds in the Great Plains, they have allowed for a recovery of the largest Land Mammal in North America. We saw a large herd of cows and calves at Lake Theo near the entrance. We also saw several lone Bulls along the roads toward the back of the park. Whether on Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake, among the rolling hills of Custer State Park in South Dakota, or roaming the open plains of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, these magnificent creatures always inspire awe. They have also allowed many Native Communities to recover their traditional ways of life that depend on these noble beasts.

 

Caprock's other signature mammals are Prairie Dog Town's cute creatures. These rodents live in an expanding community alongside a central camping area of the park. They live alongside humans, bison, and the other animals of the park and provide endless hours of entertainment. However, if a single hawk or fox appears, they will disappear into their burrows in seconds. They share their burrows with field mice and other small critters. They also harbor Rattlesnakes and bullnakes. But these two prefer feeding on the smaller rodents and leave the Prairie Dogs alone. Their burrows are divided into many living areas and can extend hundreds of feet. They are equipped with natural air conditioning, with one entrance built higher than the others to catch the breeze and air out the tunnels. The more I observe and learn about these creatures, the more respect I have for them and the natural processes that have allowed them to prosper in their environment.

 

We finished our week with an afternoon in Caprock Canyon. We hiked almost half of the Eagle Rock Trail and saw a Natural Bridge and other beautiful landscapes. The red sandstone is lined with calcite and jasper, which makes for fascinating formations. After the hike, we searched for Bison and Prairie Dogs, which we found in abundance. I must warn anyone with diabetes about the pictures that follow. There are sections where you will risk a sweetness overload!

 

 

 

The King on his throne!

A very bored King

"So I yawned. What's it to you!"

Bison cow and calf.

A Noble Profile

I told you they were cute!

"I'm laying on weight for winter. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!"

"Ooooh, that feels sooo goood!"

"What, you don't scratch?"

"Did you hear something?"

Black-tailed Prairie Dog

Their usual daytime activity.

"I'm sure I heard something!"

"Ok, sit in your hole. Leaves more for me!"

A tree that transformed its root into a trunk!

Trail buddy

Red standstone layered with Gypsum.

A rare pond

Can you spot the frog?

An Arroyo

No idea what it is, but it is blooming

A fracturing cliff

The Natural Bridge

The Magic of Caprock Canyon

Eagle Point

It has been an excellent first week back in Texas. We have seen some iconic places and enjoyed warm weather and the notorious panhandle winds. We faced uncertainty and found our footing in the changing sands of our wandering. The trick? Leaning in when the wind starts blowing! We have a few more days in Silverton. We hope to return to Caprock before the weather changes on us mid-week. Afterward, we have a couple of museums to check out before we head out for Wichita Falls and points south and west next week.

 

Our journey continues as we move closer to our family and friends in Central Texas. I am glad you are riding along with us through the open plains of the Panhandle. They have their own beauty, and I am delighted to share it with you.

 

Travel well, my friends!

Bob